You’d be hard pressed to find a list of the greatest movies of all time that doesn’t include Casablanca and for good reason. Cape{town} Etc’s Murray Swart recently visited Rick’s Café, a contemporary restaurant, inspired by a classic.
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Elegant yet understated, exotic but familiar, this beautifully shot work is a love story for the ages that has truly stood the test of time.
Set in the early 1940s, it tells the story of Rick Blaine, a cynical ex-patriate who runs a nightclub in Casablanca, Morocco, during WWII.
Despite the pressure he constantly receives from the local authorities, Rick’s Café Americain has become a kind of haven for refugees seeking to obtain illicit letters that will help them escape to America.
However, when Rick’s former lover (Ingrid Bergman) and her husband visit his cafe one day, Rick faces a difficult challenge that results in unforeseen complications, heartbreak and, ultimately, an agonising decision to make.
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With outstanding performances from both Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart, accompanied by brilliant writing and exceptional cinematography, it is a film that is sure to stir up emotion and a sense of nostalgia despite being set in some of history’s darkest days.
It portrays a sense of class in a time of chaos and, like fine wine, it only seems to get better with age.
It might be the beautiful love story that embedded the film in the hearts of millions over the years, but it is the sense of romance, rebellion and revelry exuded from Bogart’s nightclub that inspired a local restauranteer to create a piece of Casablanca in the centre of Cape Town.
Known for its vibrant nightlife, Kloof Street is renowned for its restaurants but while competition is tough, Rick’s Café Americain certainly stands out from the pack.
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Born and bred in Germany, it was a visit to North Africa that inspired owner Per Géza Menkö to bring a taste of Morroco to the Mother City.
‘When I was in my early 20s, my girlfriend and I got a VW bus and spent nine months travelling through the country,’ he recalls. ‘When we arrived, we were treated like lost children. I’ve never experienced that kind of hospitality in my life. It’s incredible how accommodating people are in the Middle East and the food is out of this world. This is what we are trying to replicate at Rick’s.’
Asked about the film-based theme, Menkö said that he adopted the concept while working in Cape Town.
‘After working as an executive chef at the V&A Hotel before taking over Kennedy’s Cigar Bar and doing some consulting work, a friend and I were looking around for premises to open our own restaurant.’
‘My partner previously owned a Rick’s Cafe in Loop Street and when we found a building in Park Road we thought it would be perfect to reopen it.’
‘I operated at this location for 15 years before buying the building at our current location in Kloof Street shortly before Covid.’
‘I was lucky to be able to retain most of our staff, including our chef, which really helped as we didn’t have to do much training.’
With dependable staff and a new location, Rick’s was ready to roll. However, serious renovations were required for Per to fulfil his vision.
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Simply standing in front of the charming 135 year old Victorian Villa, decorated in a style reminiscent of the 1942 movie classic, you are transported to a bygone time and place.
However, this came at a price, with the renovations and upgrades costing more than the building itself, according to Per
‘There was no roof terrace when we moved in so we had to build it from scratch.’
‘We have stunning views of the mountain and wanted our patrons to be able to appreciate throughout the year so we installed sliding glass panels to protect our guests from the elements. The wind can be brutal up there.’
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‘We also had to completely renovate the bar downstairs as well as the dining area on the first floor.’
‘The roof had holes in it and the walls were basically just bricks stacked on top of each other.’
‘We basically had to replace the entire building because it was really falling apart.’
The attention to detail and focus on the theme of the restaurant are evident from the vibrant decor, furnishings and posters through to the televisions screening Casablanca on loop.
These elements contribute to a warm and inviting atmosphere, ideal for both casual dining and special occasions.
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With its trellaced balconies and several fireplaces throughout the building, Rick’s gives guests plenty of seating options for any weather conditions, offering the perfect respite from the chaos of Kloof Street.
That said, what is sure to have you coming back again and again are the food and cocktails, both made from scratch using only the freshest ingredients. Even the lemon juice is freshly squeezed on a daily basis, making for some truly delectable drinking.
Rick’s menu offers something for everyone, with an array of sensational starters, magnificent mains and delectable desserts.
Per described the food as ‘Morrocan/ Mediteranean cuisine’.
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With offerings like lamb kefta skewers and Morrocan cheese parcels, Rick’s offers an assortment of authentic hors d’oeuvre that won’t disappoint, while the smoked, marinated crocodile tail with rocket and drizzled with an orange and granadilla vinaigrette is a great option for those with an adventurous palate.
In case you were wondering, it tastes like chicken with the soft, silky texture of fish and melts in your mouth.
‘The crocodile is a dish we have carried for many years and always goes down well with our guests,’ added Per.
The tapas platter, consisting of mixed Karoo olives, lamb kofie, chicken brochettes, fish cakes, marinated and grilled squid, dolmodes, chickpea tomato salsa, tzatziki, baba ghanouj and humus with pita bread, is perfect for sharing and is among Rick’s most popular items.
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When it comes to mains, the lamb shank and prune tajine, served with prunes, apricots, honey, cinnamon with sesame seeds and a minted yoghurt, is an absolute showstopper.
Rick’s also offers a variety of vegetarian dishes, including the wild mushroom and butternut risotto, so beautifully plated you can be forgiven for forgetting to eat it as you look on in awe.
For those keen on some familiar but flavourful dishes, the restaurant also offers delicious burgers.
Don’t miss out on their two-for-one burger winter special available on Tuesdays.
As with all their dishes, Rick’s desserts also come highly recommended, especially the Morrocan lime cheesecake, served with a berry couli and homemade Mauritian vanilla bean ice cream.
In keeping with their theme, the restaurant is aiming to recreate the iconic scene from the movie, where Bogart asks his pianist to ‘Play it again, Sam’. Rick’s will be hosting live jazz three times a week with an array of top musicians on offer.
‘We’re hoping these jazz nights will bring some life into the bar downstairs,’ Per explains.
‘Performers include the likes of the Alan Cameron Trio, with Alan on piano, accompanied by a double base and drums, as well as the Alvin Dyers Trio with Abigail Houghton on vocals.’
‘These evenings will start on first Thursday and we are expecting them to be very successful.’
‘We thought this would be the perfect time to start. We had to move the piano downstairs, which is certainly easier said than done, but everything is ready for what we believe will become a regular feature.’
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Enjoying a delicious meal with an ice cold cocktail in hand and exceptional jazz music filling the air in this trendy yet tasteful setting, you may well find yourself transported from Kloof Street to Casablanca.
It’s an all-around great experience so don’t be surprised if Rick’s becomes your regular.
The staff are efficient and incredibly accommodating, while the attention to detail and customer service are as palatable as the food.
To coin some phrases from the movie, ‘of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world’, this is one you want to walk into. It’s likely to be the ‘start of a beautiful friendship’.
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Picture: Ryan Govender